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(916) 768-8487

3031 Stanford Ranch Rd, Suite 2-419, Rocklin, CA 95765
chris@christaylorpainting.com
Lic. Number: 824719
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Epoxy Floors

Preparation

Preparation of the concrete floor is the most important part of the process. The purpose of this step is to get any oil, grease, dirt, grime, and tire marks off of the floor. In most cases we accomplish this by using muriatic acid and water. Depending on the concrete sometimes it is necessary to repeat this process until it is completely clean. In cases where the floor was poorly poured or if there is excessive dirt and oil, we use a grinder to remove the top layer of the concrete. After we get the floor as clean as we can we will let it dry and then vacuum it until the floor is free of any remaining dust. The ultimate goal of the preparation process is to achieve the cleanest possible floor in order to allow the epoxy to adhere thoroughly to the concrete.

Primer

Installation of the epoxy starts with a primer coating. We apply the primer coating with a small nap 18" roller as well as a 1" wood chip brush to get areas we can't with a roller. Depending on the grade of floor, the primer can vary from a shellac based bin primer up to a polyurea 2 part component 100% solids epoxy. This coating seals the concrete and gives us a smooth clean surface to apply our next coating.

Epoxy
Once the primer coating is completely dry (typically 45 minutes to 1 hr) then we apply our epoxy coating with a squeegee and a 18" roller. This product can also vary depending on the grade of floor; ranging from a basic water borne epoxy to a 2 part 100% solid solvent based epoxy. This coating will be spread around the floor with a squeegee followed by a roller to even it out.
Chips Chips are added to floor during the epoxy coating before it dries to allow the flakes to stick to the floor. Some people rather not have flakes and have a solid colored floor but flakes are a great way to hide any imperfections in your floor. Even with the primer and epoxy coatings there still may be some holes or cracks that weren't completely filled. If your floor is 10-20 years old typically it has had some wear on it. This is where the flakes will help take your eyes off of the remaining holes and cracks. Flakes can come in various sizes and just about any color combination you can think of. We broadcast the flakes by hand as we walk on the floor with special spikes that allow us to walk on the epoxy without ruining the coating. The consistency of flakes is 100% up to the customer, we will do one section of the floor to meet your desires and then match the rest of the floor. Typical consistency of flakes is around 50-65% which allows you to still see the color of epoxy you chose and is not completely covered with flakes. However if that is the route you go we can do a full broadcast which will cover the entire floor with flakes but this will require 2 clear coats to seal the flakes to the floor.

Clear Coat
If you chose to do a clear coat to get maximum life out of your new floor we will complete your floor with the clear coat. These, as with the colored epoxy, come in a variety of grades. From water based, to 100% solid solvent based. Generally we choose the corresponding topcoat that matches the original base coat. The clear coating will be applied the same way as the epoxy coating but this coating has to be the following day. We have to allow the epoxy coating to dry completely before we can apply a clear coat. Once this coating is applied it will need 24 hrs to dry before anyone can walk on it, 48 hrs to put anything heavy on it, and 7 days before you drive on it. The best part about the clear coat is that multiple years down the road you can have another clear coat applied to preserve your floor!

If you have questions or we can assist you in any way, please contact Taylor Painting at 916-768-8487 or for your convenience, you may contact us from this site.
 
My Steps .....

Pressure Washing

The first step in painting the exterior of a house is to make sure that any dirt and debris is removed to ensure the paints ability to adhere to the surface. The simplest and best way to start this process is to pressure wash. This is rather straightforward on a painted house; however, stained siding takes an experienced and cautious hand.

Caulking
The next step in the preparation process is to caulk any gaps where the siding meets other surfaces, including doors, windows and eves. This prevents water from getting behind the siding and pushing the paint off the surface. It is vital to caulk those spaces using an exterior elastomeric caulking rated to last longer than 40 years. The rating does not necessarily reflect the number of years a caulking will last. A 40 year plus rating ensures that it will be doing its job long enough to last as long as the 10-15 year paint job.

Scraping/Sanding
Any loose paint that has not been removed by the pressure washing needs to be scraped off. This is done using a putty knife to scrape any bubbled or blistering paint from the surface. It’s important to ensure that the entire section of loose paint is removed. Frequently the edges of this area are sanded down to remove the edge. On rough hewn timber a wire bristle brush is used for this application.

Repairs

Stucco
Often, stucco can be damaged in the course of regular lawn care and through weathering and aging. This results in shallow areas and large cracks. It’s important to debris these areas and patch them with fresh stucco material. We like to use QuickSet. It allows us to patch the break in the wall quickly but with a material that will last for many years. Again, it costs us more, but saves time in both the initial process and in potential return calls that are frustrating to the customer and to us.

T-111
T-111 is a type of plywood with vertical lines used as siding. Because of its composition it is vulnerable to weathering. In many cases T-111 will check and begin to delaminate. Severely checked T-111 can be salvaged by using oil based primer to penetrate the surface and bond the layers of the plywood back together. It also can fill the checks, which prevents further damage. If the checks are not filled with the primer, we use filler to replace the missing material.

Lap siding
Lap siding can be repaired in much the same way as T-111 repaired. The difference with lap siding is its smooth solid structure. So, scraping and sanding is the precursor to any repair work. Planing down the surface with a sander is the simple way to remove damage and create a smooth surface again. Of course the final action is priming which creates a surface ready to paint. Shingles Siding made up of shingles is easier to deal with by replacing the individually damaged shingle. It is a simple repair due to the nature of the material. A single shingle, or portion of a shingle is easy to remove and replace without disrupting the entire surface.

Masking
All the windows need to be covered in order to prevent them from being painted. At Taylor Painting, we like to use 3M masking plastic. It covers the windows quickly and still allows light into the home. It’s a little more expensive, but we think it’s worthwhile. In a similar manner, walkways, roof tiles, plants and patio furniture are covered and moved when possible.

Painting
Finally we get to paint! In truth, the preparation can take equally as long as actually painting but makes all the difference in the final outcome in the look of the paint. Most of the time at Taylor Painting we like to use Kelly Moore paints; however, we will use whatever product our customers’ request after consulting with them to determine the best product to meet their need. Kelly Moore’s KM 1240 (premium exterior flat) is one of the finest exterior products on the market. For most houses we use this product by bringing it to the surface of the house using a large airless paint sprayer. We spray the surface with 3 mills of paint and then roll the surface to ensure the smooth application of the paint over the siding. We use this process around the entire house and then coat the siding again using the sprayer alone.

Trim boards and fascia should be hand painted. We like using KM1245 (premium exterior low sheen). Bringing the sheen up a level helps the more vulnerable wood to shed water and resist the oxidizing effects of sunshine and weathering. Almost always, we paint the gutters at the same time and in the same way as the trim boards.

Finally, we paint the doors using KM 1250 (premium exterior semi-gloss). In most cases we paint these by hand as well. In this way we can easily put a quality coat on a surface that is frequently scrutinized by people standing inches away from it. Some doors have smooth surfaces. On these, we use KM 1265 Durapoxy (Premium interior/exterior high resign semi-gloss) using a small airless sprayer with a fine finish tip. This makes for a very hard smooth finish.

Clean Up
The next step is to remove all masking materials and replace any fixture removed prior to painting. With this done, we bring out the pressure washer again and make sure that any drips or overspray marks are removed from the walkways or driveway.

If you have questions or we can assist you in any way, please contact Taylor Painting at 916-768-8487 or for your convenience, you may contact us from this site.